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aznrevo Stats
Car: bmw
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Score: 28 Points from 4 votes = 7

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10 Last Member Comments

Oh yeah, if your clutch is shot, you will loose some big power. It could easily through you off 1 sec. Especially on a 0-60 because it tends to slip the most when coming off a dead stop and when you shift. If it is really bad, when you are cruzin the RPMs will jump occasionaly as if you stepped on the clutch. Later

My AEM Uego goes nuts every few months becasue the O2 sensors can go bad quick. If you are all over on the A/F check the sensor. I think you need to go in for a good in depth tune. A good shop will only charge a few hundred for it and they will tell you where you are losing power. When it comes to you 0-60 you gotta remember that alot of those times take several passes messing with different approaches to determine which is the fastest. But if you smell clutch, your either off on your timing or your clutch is at its end. I dont know where you are located but I know some great shops in my area.

What up. The only things that I have noticed that can affect spool are ball bearing vs non ball bearing turbos, stroker kits, headers, or a blown turbo. its pretty easy to measure if you have a boost gauge. If you are surging you boost gauge will be all over the place. a Stock turbo on a tuned evo usually survies a couple years before it starts lossing its potential. My 9 has gone through 2 and it has 45k miles. Launching in the red on a stock clutch is probably your issue. I bet you are slippling like a SOB. Clutch is one of the first things you should change on these cars if you are going to do anything to it. I had to replace the one in my 9 as well after 30k miles. If you are going to drive aggressivley, get something that can hold 2-3 times more power then you can make. So check you boost gauge and see if you are surging. Otherwise, pay close attention to the clutch when you drive. When it starts slipping you will know because it will feel off... Exedy or QuarterMaster twin disk clutch is the way to go..

Sup, a worn clutch could affect a little, but if you haven't tuned your car since it was stock that could have a lot to do with it. If you haven't had the car dyno'd since adding the performance parts, then you need to do so, the stock tune is for the stock parts, and if you don't tune it for performance you're not going to get max benefits from you after markets. I am nowhere near an expert on this stuff though, so you may want to ask IMBROKE.

It can get costly, but 'IMBROKE' and I go to the same shop and represent it with our cars (all three of them) Hence the Performance AutoWerks and Werks Racing logos on the car, so were working things out as far as labor. Our Machanic also happens to be a big chicago bears fan, and I a season ticket holder, so some bartering has taken place ; ). As far as cops, they've left me alone to this point (though I haven't done and 65s in 25s, maybe 135 140 on the highway). The only thing I've been pulled over for to this point is tinted front windows and no front plate by a cop that doesn't do traffic very often... and I got warnings on both. Thanks for the props and good luck trickin' out your 8!! -JVP

Fuel pump is listed! Lines 12 and 13....

Nice book Alan 'imbroke' (I'll testify to that nickname being true)... but why does everyone forget the fuel pump? Maybe I just missed it in your version of War and Peace. I don't see you with it listed, so if you haven't gotten the walbro fuel pump... mucho necessary.

The 8s and 9s are different when it comes to what you get out of them... Looks like you have an 8 though... Most people would tell you to start with a turbo back exhaust and an intake. Changing the down pipe on these things makes a big difference especially on the 9s. You will also want a manual boost control (or auto if you want to drop the $$) after that you need more air and more fuel... Turbo will max out before you can fully utilize some of these things but they will also let you start with a better canvas... Cams will give you more mid to high end power but take away from the lower RPMs and your idle will get lumpy.. Id go Injectors, Intercooler, HKS ignition, fuel pump and clutch! twin disk all the way (quartermaster or Exedy) expensive up front but rebuild for them is cheap. If you dont plan on breaking into crazy power they will hold forever... With those mods you will move. But the biggest trick is tunning.. Well tunned will trump everything... Check out the black 8 on this site "JVP" he has all the mods I recomended and his car is a monster... That said, if I had to do it all over again I would have started with internals right off the bat. Racing head, rods, pistons, springs and rockers... No power there but much more stability. Plus on the 4G63 its not that much $$$... Oh, break 400awhp without suspension and your evo will drive like a teeter-totter... best rule of thumb, if you change something, make sure the car is ready to handle it. you need fuel, air and spark. Dont skip the batteries, head studs, gaskets and what not... For example if you change the turbo, put on a header, studs, wastegate, BOV and so on... change everything it connects too so it is ready... side note, trans and drive shaft are stock and still hold the power of my 8. Change the gear ratio and leave it till it goes... It will hold for a while... All the best! Stay it touch!!!

half the parts out there someone will tell you are illegal in some way. I have gotten so hastled by cops its not even funny. They have even pulled me over just to check out the car... Anyway, for my highly moded 8 I have it registered as a show car so I dont have to comply to emissions testing or police hastle because I am only allowed to drive it 3k miles a year... My 9 isnt due for testing for about 5 years so by then ill think of something....

thanks for the comment. My stock rims are actually powdercoated gloss black...